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Speedometer Stopped Working?
How to Replace Your Speedometer Cable on the Mazda B2000, B2200 & B2600/i
November 1, 2012

Speedometer on the Mazda B2000, B2200, B2600

So your speedometer has stopped working and you've determined that your speedometer cable is bad.  Now it's time to replace the cable.  Relax!  It's easier than you think and can be accomplished in 20 minutes - even if you're not an experienced DIY mechanic.

Finding a Replacement Speedometer Cable 
Speedometer Cable for Mazda B2000 B2200 B2600Your first step is to purchase a new speedometer cable.  There are still OEM Mazda cables available from Mazda dealers & distributors and they typically run between $75 and $125, depending on your model and transmission configuration.  There are also aftermarket cables available in the $60 to $100 range.  The last option is to purchase a used cable from a salvage yard, or online vendors like B2600i.com.  We usually have used cables in stock.  What ever source you purchase from, you'll need to make sure that it is for your model and transmission configuration.  Automatic and 4x4 transmissions typically require a longer speedometer cable.  If you are buying from someone on eBay, insist that they confirm what model and transmission configuration it came from.  There are many sellers on eBay that just assume some parts fit all 86-93 models.  If they aren't sure, have them measure it and compare the length to your own cable.


Ready to Remove and Replace
If your B-Series truck is stock height or a 4x4, you should be able to disconnect the cable from the transmission without jacking it up, although it may be a cozy fit.  If your truck is lowered, then you'll definitely need to gain some extra clearance underneath to gain access to the transmission.


1 Disconnect Negative Battery Cable


2 Give Yourself Some Slack
Locate the speedometer cable in the engine compartment.  Follow it down the firewall until you locate the retaining clip.  Carefully unsnap the cable from the clip.  Be careful as these plastic clips become brittle with age and can easily break.  Next, gently pull on the transmission end of the cable to take up some of the extra slack.  Push the slack through the grommet in the firewall and into the cabin.  Having the extra slack on the inside will make removing the gauge cluster easier.


3 Remove Gauge Cluster Bezel
There are 4 screws to remove; two on the under side of the top and two on the underside of the bottom.  After those screws are out, give the bezel a gentle tug and it will release the the fasteners that are still retaining it.  Don't pull to hard; the dimmer switch will still be plugged in.  Unplug the dimmer switch connector then set the bezel out of the way.


4 Remove Speedometer Gauge Cluster
Remove the four screws holding the gauge cluster to the dash.  Now pull the cluster forward enough to gain access with one hand to the back of the cluster.  Disconnect the three wiring harnesses on the back of the bezel by pushing the locking tab down and pulling away from the cluster.  Last, grasp the end of the speedometer cable and depress the locking tab.  Then pull cable out of the cluster and set the cluster out of the way.  Notice where the cable is coming from.  If your truck has a tachometer, it should be to the left of the center section.  If you don't have a tachometer, then it should be be routed through the center support.  This will be important on installation so as not to damage or break your new cable.  Now push the cable as much as possible toward the firewall and into the engine bay.


5 Disconnect From Transmission
Now slide under your truck from the driver side and locate where the cable enters the transmission.  Use an open end wrench or a set of pliers to unscrew the cable from the  transmission.  Before you slide out from under the truck, there is one more clip retaining the cable.  Follow the cable forward to locate it and unsnap the cable from the clip.  Now push the cable forward into the engine bay.


6 Remove the Cable
From the engine bay side of the firewall, carefully wiggle the cable grommet loose from the firewall.  Now pull the remaining cable through the firewall and remove from the vehicle.


Installing Your New Cable
Installation is the reverse of removal.  However, there are a few important things to keep in mind.  If your previous cable failed, you will want to make sure that your speedometer gauge did not freeze up and cause the cable to break - if you haven't checked this already.  Make sure that the hole where cable fits into the speedo cluster rotates freely.  You should be able to turn it with your finger or a small flat head screw driver.  If it doesn't turn easily, you'll need to replace it.  Installing a new cable into a jammed or binding speedometer will only cause the new cable to break.  Also make sure you new cable, especially if it's used, rotates freely.

When routing the new cable back into the dash board, you'll need to make sure it's in the right location.  If your speedometer cluster doesn't have a tachometer, then the cable needs to be routed through the center support.  If it does have a tach, then it will need to come out of the right side of the center support.  Not routing it properly will cause it to kink and break the cable, the speedometer housing, or both.